Things to do in Edinburgh when you’re conferencing
In a somewhat startling and immensely welcome turn of events, I just found out that my conference paper proposal was accepted, which means that, God willing and the crick don’t rise, I’m bound for Edinburgh this summer. I’m thrilled, not just because the conference looks marvelous, but also because I’ve never been in the UK, and this will be
the biggest trip I’ve ever planned. Given all of that, I’m going to combine the three days of the conference with a bit of a vacation before and after. I haven’t set any dates yet, but I’ll most likely fly through London and take a train to Edinburgh and back. I’d like to spend at least a couple of days in London and at least a couple of non-conference days in Edinburgh, for starters. I might make a stopover somewhere on my way back to London.
And this is where I ask you all for suggestions for things I absolutely must see. I’m already thinking that I can’t pass up the Edinburgh Castle, Arthur’s Seat, or the Palace of Holyroodhouse. There are more things in London that I want to see than can possibly fit into just a few days, so I’m resigned to not seeing all of them this time around; the British Museum and Library are a must, though, and I may try to work in a bit of operagoing at Covent Garden before
the conference begins.
Other possibilities:
- Stop between Edinburgh and London at Kendal, and spend a day or two walking in the Lake District.
- Alternatively, stop between Edinburgh and London at York. Ascend the medieval city walls, and maybe take a side trip to the North York Moors. Or Whitby, for the Dracula connection.
- I wouldn’t at all mind stopping to hike along part of Hadrian’s wall, either.
I’d love to go to the Glyndebourne Opera Festival, and the Aldeburgh Festival, but I think both of those things will have to wait. Likewise, there won’t be time for my fantasy recreation of John Keats’s 1818 walking tour (though I can certainly make time to visit the house where he lived in Hampstead). But I still want to do as much as I can in a week and a half.
So: further suggestions for a bibliophilic opera fan who enjoys a good walk? And if any of you can recommend footwear suitable for tromping all over the British Isles that doesn’t scream “American tourist in sneakers,” I’d be much obliged.
I dunno, but you should start hanging out at Sophie’s maybe: http://scotland4thesenses.blogspot.com/
If you can manage it, I’d put all of the recreation on one side of the conference or the other and do an open-jaw flight (fly in to London, train to Edinburgh and fly home from that city or vice-versa). The train journey is pretty long, and while it will probably be pretty, it’s not something you need to do twice in one week.
Go to Oxford if you can manage it. It’s an easy day trip from London. Christchurch is so incredibly lovely, and the Ashmolean museum is a little gem.
I’ve always had good luck with Ecco shoes – sturdy, comfortable, and ubiquitous around Europe.
Berwick*-upon-Tweed, right at the Anglo-Scots border, is a wonderful little seaside town and an easy day trip from Edinburgh. Alnwick* (nearby) is the ducal seat of Northumberland, and has lovely botanical gardens at the castle there. The island of Lindisfarne is also worth a side trip if you have time (and if the tide is out so you can cross the causeway).
*Mind, these are pronounced “Barrack” and “Annick,” respectively. Makes it easier to get on the proper bus.
I’ll leave a little comment, but if you’re willing to get an email, let me know. After all, I did live in Edinburgh for a year.
Understand that a train from Edinburgh to London is at least 8 hours, so you’re giving over a whole day of your vacation just to that. You could as easily day-trip from Edinr to York and back if you liked. Flight from London to Edinr is about 45 minutes-1 hour.
Go to the NLS – they have lovely exhibits in the foyer area, so you don’t even have to leave your bag in a locker. Hiking up Arthur’s Seat is fun, bring a camera. And for shoes, I recommed anything by Clarks.
I guess maybe it’s a while since Megan lived in Edinburgh – the train is a bit faster these days and to be honest unless you are near one of the London airports.. and I imagine you will be in the centre of London, I would always take the train. Around 4.5 hours, no horror of London airports and security and hassle, and almost always ‘door-to-door’ faster than flight. And yes, it is a gorgeous journey. The trains have wifi. Perfect for catching up on a little holiday emailing, late conference prep etc 🙂
Thanks, everyone, for the advice! When in doubt, crowdsource the travel plans.
Dale: that blog looks excellent. Thank you!
Jill: I think I may very well do the open jaw thing, starting the trip at Edinburgh and making my way to London.
Chris: oh, Lindisfarne would be wonderful. I’ll see if I can fit it in somewhere.
Megan: I’ll definitely go to the NLS. And there’s no way I’m not bringing a camera up Arthur’s Seat.
Purity: good to know about train wifi! 4.5 hours to London was pretty much what the interwebs told me to expect, so it’s good to hear confirmation.
Belated congratulations and some recommendations from my wife Lisa, who has spent some time in Edinburgh. Here’s here website http://burkeandhare.com/
Walks: Royal Mile, Arthur’s Seat/Salisbury Crags, New Town. Slightly further afield: Pentlands, Rosslyn Chapel (don’t let the Da Vinci Coders bite)
Antiquarian book stores: There are a few in the West Port which Lisa thinks may have consolidated. There’s also MacNaughton’s at Top of Leith Walk, Old Town Bookshop at 8 Victoria Street, and Aurora Books at Cannonmills.
Don’t know where you intend to stay. Lisa really likes the Knight Residence near the West Port.
Since you are a knitter, you’ll probably want to ogle the wares at Bill Baber in the Grassmarket.
I’m sure Lisa would be glad to help with additional details.
Ian Hamilton Finlay’s Little Sparta may may interest the philosophically inclined gardenist.
I live in Edinburgh if it helps?
How would I send my email address to you? I always like visitors to love my little city as much as I do…
And I knit.
Laura
Jumps up and down and waves a bit.
Offer of services as Native Guide when you’re in Edinburgh, or e-guide beforehand if you prefer.
I’m a local, I knit, I geek as best I can (when my current deadline is past, come May, I shall be attempting to knit a symmetrical pair of Mandelbrot fractals into a sweater, knitted in the round, starting doll-size on 1.5mm wires with 2-ply Shetland laceweight.)
And I know where the best cake-shops are, too…:-)
Hi Laura — my email’s linked in the “About” page for this blog, and I’d be delighted to hear about the locations of the best cake-shops! And I’m now very curious about Mandelbrot fractal knitting, which is one of those things I’ve always wondered about.
I’ve emailed you, Amanda!
One thing – make sure you look out of the windows on your train journeys! The line goes slap-bang through the castle of Newcastle, and almost immediately across the Tyne river, where if you look form one side to another you can see the seven bridges in half a mile that are so famous. Then further north, between Berwick-upon-Tweed* and Edinburgh you have a section near a place called Fast Castle, where the train is nearly off the edge of the cliff, with stunning drops to look down in fascinated horror, with the seas crashing onto jagged pinnacles and then suddenly you glimpse a little cluster of cottages at the base of one cliff-inlet with smoke from their chimneys, being lived in but almost in the sea!
*Berwick-upon-Tweed is on the border between Scotland and England and its nationality has changed dozens of times over the centuries. Allegedly it is still officially at war with, I think, Russia, because it was included in a declaration of war, but then shifted national boundaries and so wasn’t included in the declaration of peace… not sure it’s true but the Borders is a region of mists and myths and legends where anything is believable. It’s Sir Walter Scott’s lands, and before then, it was the ‘Debatable Lands’ belonging to, and under the law of, neither country; the home of “border reivers’, lawless family clans living by their own codes of theft and pillage, living in fortified houses (peel towers in Northumbria and tower-houses in Scotland); even now the Border towns of Scotland have their own traditions like a grand procession each year on horseback around the boundaries of the town to confirm its status in law, and insanely-ruleless ‘games’ of a primitive football which start with a ball at one end of the town and just fight their way madly to the other end, hundreds of people, no rules and one ball! Even the sweeties (candy) are very local – Jedburgh has its “Jeddart Snails” candy, and Hawick has “Hawick Balls” made to a recipe given by a French prisoner-of-war from the Napoleonic times!